Located in south-central Utah, Capitol Reef National Park’s bizarre landscape and unique geology is certain to delight. Established in 1971 to preserve its geological treasures, it is a youngster when compared to other famous parks like Yosemite and Yellowstone.

​

Starting at the visitor center of any national park is a smart move. But there is some added history to be found near Capitol Reef’s visitor center in Fruita. Fruita is a historic Mormon pioneer settlement with old buildings, fruit tree groves, and herds of deer. If you get there early enough, you can even buy a pie at an operating bakery. Yes, a bakery in a national park. The pies were delicious.

​

Capitol Reef’s striking geologic features are best summarized by their location in the park and how you access them. There are three main routes or loops that provide you access to the oddly shaped park.

​

The scenic drive, starting at the visitor center, give you access to beautiful canyons and an impressive arch. On the east side of the road, and nearby the visitor center, is an expansive area of exposed shale. The most impressive aspects of the shale are the size and geometric shapes of the fragments. Many pieces looked as if a human carefully and intentionally shaped it into a perfect square. They looked like graham crackers just waiting for a gigantic marshmallow and Hershey bar to be sandwiched in between.

​

This scenic drive also parallels the most prominent feature of the park, the Waterpockets Fold, which is something to behold. This monocline, formed by a fault thrusting sedimentary rock upward, has been exposed after years of erosion. This creamy-colored behemoth, with streaks of red and orange rock, stretches for miles. From the air, it looks like a giant spine that runs north to south through the park.

​

To explore the north and south sections of the park, you have to head east on State Highway 24 from Fruita. You’ll need an all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive vehicle as a few stream or river crossings are required. The roads are quite rough. These roads start in Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands, then wind into Capitol Reef’s boundaries. So don’t fret if you see the park’s exit sign.

​

On the north side of the park, take either Hartnet or Cathedral Road. You can return on the same road or continue onto the other road to complete the full loop, as I did. Along this route, you will pass through Cathedral Valley. Sandstone spirals line the valley and the canyon walls. As you proceed, you’ll come across the Gypsum Sinkhole and the Glass Mountain. Be sure to stop and marvel at these amazing geologic peculiarities.

​

My favorite feature was the mounds of bentonite, created from volcanic ash, and the large, black volcanic rocks scattered throughout it. The bentonite looked like crushed granola bar and had vibrant streaks of burgundy and green. I spent hours walking through these hills as I tried to figure out what it was.

​

To explore the south end of the park, take Notom-Bullfrog Road. It parallels the fold for about 30-40 miles as it leads to a road named Burr Trail Road which crosses over the fold by a series of switchbacks. Continue on this road through some of Escalante-Grand Staircase National Monument’s beautiful red canyons until you reach State Highway 12, a nationally recognized scenic byway. As you head north on HWY 12, back to the visitor center, you will pass through Dixie National Forest. As you gain thousands of feet in elevation, the National Park and National Monument come into full view. The upper elevations of the Dixie National Forest were still covered in snow when I was there in April. The contrast of snowcapped mountains and desert oddities left me speechless.

​

The remoteness of the park and great distances from large cities ensures the night skies are some of the darkest anywhere in the United States. Stargazers are sure to be pleased with the often-visible Milky Way. The rise of a full Moon was something to behold. The distant mountains to the east were silhouetted on the horizon. As it continued to rise and pierce the night sky, clouds partially obstructed the view creating an eerie, but still mesmerizing view.   

​

Even with six days and a four-wheel drive vehicle to explore the park, I still left portions of it untouched. The size, scale, and number of the bizarre geologic features will leave you with a profound respect for the powerful, creational forces that birthed them. A deep sense of curiosity will also follow you well after you depart the park’s boundaries.